In what should come as no surprise to anyone is that a 2011 F150 with 174,000 miles has its fair share of problems, one of the most egregious for our 2011 F150 XL Project Truck was a broken IWE system that caused pretty horrendous grinding and sounds of suffering when first taking off and when turning.
For the uninitiated, Ford's Integrated Wheel End (IWE) system is what locks and unlocks the front hubs when you change back and forth from 2WD and 4WD. The system works off of vacuum and functions a little counter-intuitively in that it uses vacuum to keep the hubs unlocked for 2WD and shuts off the vacuum to lock the front hubs for 4WD. While actually a pretty clever way of doing things, anything vacuum-operated is prone to problems, and the IWE system isn't an uncommon point of issues on any 4WD F150, regardless of engine option. The IWE system is made up of four basic parts: 1). The IWE Solenoid/Valve Assembly (part# 7L1Z-9H465-B), which controls the flow of vacuum when you change drives. 2). The IWE actuators (I used the 2011-2015 F150 Dorman IWE kit for this guide, OEM part# is 7L1Z3C247A, I believe). 3). The IWE Vacuum Line (part# BL3Z-7A785-A). 4). Your front wheel hubs (I used Moog part# 515119), though not technically part of the IWE system, they play a role and can suffer during an IWE failure.
Which brings us to our 174,000 mile XL, which did spend most of its life working outdoors. When the IWE system starts to fail, the first tell-tale sign is a grinding sound in 2WD, usually only under certain conditions when it first starts, but gets progressively worse as you go along. The grinding is generally caused by the actuators not getting enough vacuum to disengage completely with the hub, and while that sounds simple, there could be several causes. With the truck grinding pretty consistently under part throttle and while turning in 2WD (but not 4WD), I knew something was up with the IWEs. Not knowing how long it had been doing that, I assumed that both the actuators and the hubs were toast, which turned out to be a pretty good assumption.
While the straight-line grinding was pretty much taken care of, the truck was still grinding when turning. My next step was replacing the IWE solenoid, though knowing what I know now, I wouldn't have bothered, since it was adequately allowing vacuum through. Still, it was an inexpensive part and easily accessible, so what the hell, it might work.
However, the real problem was this:
That's the driver's side IWE actuator vacuum line with a nice tear in it near the push clip that holds it to the frame near the ABS line. It was almost impossible to see, since it was on the side facing toward the frame, but with the IWE line being that only remaining culprit, I replaced it. In all honestly, this was probably the beginning of this truck's IWE problems, but given that it's a work truck and the IWE system isn't easy to diagnose, it probably went for awhile without anyone really caring.
Anyway, the moral of the story is that if you're getting intermittent grinding from your IWE system, check your lines first so that a $30 part doesn't turn into a couple hundred bucks worth of hubs and IWE actuators.
One other quick note: the Moog 515119 hubs that I used DID NOT have the correct connector for my truck's ABS body harness. I had to swap over my stock ABS wiring in order to get it to fit. I'm not sure if there's a model year or submodel split, but make sure you check before reassembling your hub and and knuckles.
If all else fails and you're desperate to make the grinding stop, check out the 2004-2020 F150 RCV IWE Eliminators, which delete your truck's IWE actuators and permanently lock your CVs to the front hubs. While this generally results in a decrease in fuel economy and some extra wear and tear on the front driveline (though not by a significant amount), at least your grinding will be gone.123 Comments
Josh
I'm having the same grinding in 2wd on acceleration and slowing down during low speeds. This just started becoming more noticeable over the last 2 weeks. I thought it was a brake issue so I replaced my brake shoes and made sure the rotors were in good shape. The problem didn't go away, as I was sure it wouldn't because I've never had brakes make that kind of noise and the rotors are decent no pulsating feeling in the brake pedal upon stopping. Although the pads were almost to the point of replacing, so it needed to be done anyways. After reading your post I'm sure this is exactly my problem. After the brake pads didn't make it better I engaged in in 4wd and it goes away. When I go back to 2wd it happens again. First thing I will check is the hoses and connection and hopefully I can get lucky with it being an easy fix. If I ended up replacing everything you did on your truck do you have an idea of price and hours to do the job? I'm out of warranty and tend to fix most of my vehicle problems on my own vs paying an arm and a leg to have a repair shop do it. Thanks for your time
Brian frampton
I meant @john. Sounds like your raptor has a bad cv axle.
Brian frampton
@jason. Sounds like you have a bad cv axle to me.
Peter Cunningham
After working on fleet trucks and many hours on 4x4 powertrains, another issue for system failure is when doing any axle, hub work, be sure to clean the seal contact areas on both the housing for sating in the hub and the seal face surface on the half shaft as debri left can cause tiny cuts and nicks when reassembling the shaft to knuckle..Take care as to not drag the machine cut gears across the seal lip when sliding the shaft into place. That is why a vacuum tool is needed to pull back the gear in the 2 wheel drive position and aid in gear alignment. A bit of seal lube will also promote longevity of the deal material as well since it’s exposed to the elements and rarely gets attention after assembly. And if your installing a new suspension, take a look at the conditions of the unit before installing in your new knuckles. It’s easier to replace at that point rather than after the fact. Cheap insurance if you’re at the 65000 mark or more.
John
So I got a 2014 raptor and before the snow hit here in Erie, Pa I tested the 4wd, drove it on dry asphalt and bad no issues, no grinding or anything. When the snow hit I turned on the 4wd and as I was driving I would feel this jerking motion and hear a popping sound As if something was slipping on the driver side was wondering if you guys can give your input on what the problem could possibly be
Jordan
Hey, just wanted to point out a couple things i didn't see in the comments. When installing an IWE it is extremely important to apply vacuum to the IWE when installing axle shaft in the hub. Line everything up, apply vacuum to the IWE, install the shaft in the hub bolt the IWE to the hub, get the spindle nut torqued, then you can remove vacuum. The IWE will get damaged if you cram it on without vacuum. Also, at the dealership, an IWE pays .8 or 1 hr plus another 1hr diag. Replacing the solenoid pays .2 and they usually replace the check valve as well. Diag on this is pretty easy. Apply vacuum at the IWE. Does the vacuum hold? If yes, then IWE is good, if not, IWE has bad seals and will not hold 2wd reliably. If IWE is not the problem, apply vacuum to the line that feeds the suspected IWE. Does vacuum hold? If yes, then vacuum line to IWE is good. If no, then your problem is in the line. If both these test good, your suspect is the solenoid or check valve (or the lines that feed it). Also, the vacuum canister is pretty faulty on these systems.
A Dash
I’ve taken my truck to several mechanics shops and even the ford dealership. No one knows what the sound is . That IWE is a simple and cheap fix . I had a guy tell me I needed a new transmission. The key is proper installation. Hook up the vacuum lines before matching it up with the CV . No issues and takes what you thought was a lost cause and turns it in to a Cadillac. Easiest and most reliable 4x4 system I’ve encountered!
Austin
My trucks hubs only grind going up the hill of my drive way. and it starts in a turn uphill. I have already replaced my vacuum lines and it is still grinding.
[email protected]
Hey Josh, I believe most Ford Dealerships say it's around a 6-8 hour job, which pushes labor alone over $500. OEM Ford actuators and hubs are also fairly expensive, so I'd expect that your total bill would likely be in the $1000 range, though you may want to contact your local Ford Service Center and see what they'll quote you, assuming swapping the line or actuator doesn't end up working.
Jordan
I am experienceing symptoms of IWE system failure. I have tested each IWE actuator with a vacuum pump and they engage/disengage as they should. I was wanting to test the lines for leaks but I am having trouble finding the IWE solenoid. My plan was to use my vacuum pump to test the lines where they connect to the solenoid (testing each line from the solenoid to each actuator)...Every guide I have found says that the solenoid is somewhere behind the battery and against the firewall. However, I cannot seem to locate it!!! Am I just blind or what? I have a 2013 F-150 with the 3.5 Ecoboost. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Jordan
Thanks Jason. Yes, I found it! Looks like the lines are holding vacuum... I suppose I'll let them know that I suspect the solenoid. I'm just over 30000 miles so I think its still under warranty. Hopefully this is the only system that gives me trouble... Very easy access. As far as the other systems go, the ecoboost looks like a nightmare to work on!
[email protected]
Hey Jordan! The solenoid on the 2011-2016 F150s is actually located on the driver's side firewall near the brake fluid reservoir. On the 2004-2008 F150s, it was located on the passenger's side. If you're having trouble finding it, trace the driver's side IWE line from the driver's side actuator up toward the firewall. If you're having trouble finding it, let me know, and I'll go snap a quick picture of it.
Jordan
I am experienceing symptoms of IWE system failure. I have tested each IWE actuator with a vacuum pump and they engage/disengage as they should. I was wanting to test the lines for leaks but I am having trouble finding the IWE solenoid. My plan was to use my vacuum pump to test the lines where they connect to the solenoid (testing each line from the solenoid to each actuator)...Every guide I have found says that the solenoid is somewhere behind the battery and against the firewall. However, I cannot seem to locate it!!! Am I just blind or what? I have a 2013 F-150 with the 3.5 Ecoboost. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Angelo Vilallobo
my 2011 f150 grines when truning.
Peter
I have a 2011 f150, I the mornings after sitting overnight and the temperature was very cold the truck is making a grinding noise in the front drivers side wheel, might this mean that I need a new IWE actuator switch. Thanks
[email protected]
It's possible. If the seal between the IWE and hub starts to fail, water can get into the assembly and freeze, causing grinding. Granted, any water intrusion at all can cause grinding, so it's a good idea to get it checked out.
Marvin
Ford dealership is quoting me $586+/- to replace the IWEs. Not sure if the hoses, hubs or solenoid are included. Seems like a bunch o money but I have long damn to-do list so they may get my money.
Daniel
+586 is not high. That should include parts labor and alignment. Also remember that if you pay for a fix and it fail the next part they hang should be gratis, as well as labor. Just stand your ground. In an IWE repair I always diagnose in 2 steps 1) Lift vehicle. Pull vacuum on each iwe and check for locking of IWE. (2) cap off vacuum lines at each IWE and pull a vacuum at the solenoid end of the vacuum harness.
[email protected]
An IWE swap is about 3-4 hours labor plus parts, plus markup. Also keep in mind that the Ford OEM IWEs are much more expensive than the Dormans, so $586 is high, but not as ridiculous as it first looks. I would get an itemized list of exactly what the dealer is doing, though.
Jimmy
Thank god I'm not having the grinding issue. But I do have a problem where my vacuum line occasionally slips off my driver side hub. It doesn't cause any issues as I can just slip it back on, but the end of it has been worn down a little from rubbing on something while disconnected. Does anybody have any suggestions?
Brett Pierce
I am also have the intermittent grinding when in a straight line. It hasn't happened while turning yet. I got a vacuum hand pump tester and pressured up all the lines and hubs which all held pressure. I tested both driver and passenger side with the engine running and both sides had equal pressure. This just started all out of the blue. I jacked up both front tires and neither tire seems to spin freely with out the axle turning as well. I'll start by changing the solenoid and hope for the best. Finding the cause of this is becoming a never ending battle.
Alan Kuo
Brett, I am having the same issue that you are having with the same symptoms. Have you found out what is causing the grinding? Im holding a constant vacuum. Also changed the solenoid. What else can it be? The IWE accuators are also holding pressure. Im lost for words here!
Daniel
Ford tech here. Pull a vacuum on the IWE with it in the air and see if the wheel spins free of the axle. A lot of times when we see intermittent we find 1 of 2 cause. Solenoid is shot. Or there is a slight tear in a vacuum line. At this point during tip in and high rpm vacuum is being lost.
Brett Pierce
Alan, I will change the solenoid tomorrow and new IWEs coming in Wednesday. So hopefully this will do the trick. All the research I have done says that this should work. If not then I'll change the whole hub assembly next. So wish me luck!
Joe
Having a problem with a Ford F1 50 2011 I have 12 V on both wires of the vacuum solenoid 4 x 4 check engine light is coming on on the dash
Brandon
Hey did changing the solenoid fix your problem. Im having the same issue with my truck.
Scott
I recently purchased a 2011 150 5.0 that just started with a noise from rt/frt that sounds like more of a rattle than anything else. However it does go away in 4wd. I thought it was brake related. After checking out everything that could possibly be loose or rattling I thought of 4wd trying to engage or disengage. After alot of research I stumbled on this article/conversation. I really learned alot in a few minutes and confirmed my theory. Thank you guys for pointing me in right direction.
Joe
I have a 2011 f150 the vac switch has 12volts on both sides so no vac going though I do have the check 4x4. And trying to connect with scanner but it is saying no connection to module. I think it’s the module that is bad
Brandon
Brett did changing the solenoid fix your problem? I took truck to shop and both actuators held vacuum. Yet, i took it to another shop and they replaced driver side actuator and hub but im still getting same sound. Next step im going to take is to change solenoid and the vacuum lines. But i was wondering if solenoid fixed your problem?
Brandon
I dont know if this is my problem. But i have searched all over the internet looking for people who have had the problem with the grinding. An i just saw where there is a check valve someone said they replaced and it fixed there problem. If you google iwe check vavle you will see the part. Im going to see if part store has the part tomorrow and replace it and see if it fixes my problem. If so then i wish i had knew before i spent the money to replace the iwe and hub but maybe this will help someone else out. The check valve only cost about $11 online.
Brett Pierce
update. I changed the vacuum solenoid and it didn't help at all. So I bit the bullet and pulled the old IWEs out and they were destroyed on bothe driver and passenger side. I replaced both sides with new IWEs and it seems like it fixed the passenger side. No grinding and the tire spins freely. The driver side theres no grinding at all anymore but my hub seems to still be locked in so this leads me to my vacuum lines. I have hand vacuum pump tested all my lines and they have all help vacuum. So I'm getting aggravated at this point I geuss I'm changing my lines next unless someone else can chime in on what else I can do.
Geoff
Just got mine out of the shop. Was getting a grinding noise at low rpm and turning. Ended up being a blocked/plugged vacuum line, which would hold pressure. Just my 2 cents.
Brett Pierce
Update problem fixed!! Turns out I had a defective hub actuator (which was brand new and only had 5 miles on it) I had to run to my nearest dealership and grab a new hub actuator and installed it and fixed all my problems!
R.S.
My guess is the check valve is not holding when in 4wd allowing vacuum to be pulled thus disengaging the hubs. Have you changed your check valve? You can change the check valve(part#AL3Z19A563A) only or the entire vacuum hose assembly(part#BL3Z3A788A). Also can look into the solenoid (part#7L1Z9H465B).
Tom Kemper
Needing suggestions. On Vacation and am possibly having a hub and IWE issue. Backstory: Picked my truck up from getting both lower ball joints. Noticed that I had a constant road type noise. I attributed it to cupped tires from my last 1200 mile trip, and the front tires are cupped. Drove from OH to NC this past Saturday with no issues. Go to a drive on beach today and my 4wd disengaged and I get the rattle/grind. Put it in reverse, gun it, 4wd re-engages. Try to turn around and it pops out of 4wd again. Get pulled out of the sand. Drive back to the rental house we are staying in, about 40 minutes in the grinding appears out of nowhere in 2wd, put it in 4wd and it goes away. So here I am 600 miles from home, a holiday week. Any help would be appreciated.
Lisa
the dealership replaced my passenger ball/joint and in that process broke my passenger tire rotor which in turn caused a vacuum/seal problem on my IWE on the driver side. they are saying that it was independent and refusing to fix it. I say BS bc I have never had ANY TROUBLE
James
I'm having the same problem. my truck is coming out of 4x4 once in a bind...what did you change to fix your problem.ive already cleaned my vacums lines out and changed solenoid. Was it your IWEs?
Derek
Does anyone have any preference, and or good/bad experience with the different manf. of the non oem actuators? Prob just go with oem to be safe, but they're more then double what the dorman and others cost. Would be nice to do both for the price of one side of the oem part.
[email protected]
Hey Derek, My Dorman actuators have help up just fine on my truck, even with the use and abuse that we here at Stage 3 have put our trucks through. As long as you properly install them and get the axles splined and greased, you likely won't have an issue.
Roy Smith
Been having this issue for three years. 2012 F150. Started out in real cold weather but would quit when driven and warmed up. Ford said it was probably a vacuum leak but they couldn't find it. Started a few days ago and didn't quit. 90degree weather. Changed the solenoid behind brake fluid reservoir and didn't fix it. Took it to Ford. They changed the iwe's and it's still grinding. Will call them Monday, Aug 21st and let them know that I've paid them $745 and it's still not fixed.
Steve B
I have been experiencing the same issues as you explained. What did you find to be your problem? I am driving a 2012 ecoboost at ~160000km.
Mitchell
Are the part numbers listed in the writeup the same for a 2013 Ford Raptor?
[email protected]
Hey Mitchell, I believe the part numbers for the actual IWEs, IWE solenoid, and IWE vacuum line are the same between the standard F150s and the Raptors, though I am not sure at all about the hubs. The Raptor uses different CVs than the base F150s, so there may a difference in hub part numbers. However, if your IWEs haven't been grinding all that long, then you likely don't have to replace your hubs, anyway.
Hooper Inman
I have a 2013 Ford F150 and have had this same problem for 40,000 miles. I have replaced everything and it still grinds. No one can give you a clear answer on the problem even Ford. I am just driving mine until something breaks. Ford needs to address this problem on their new models cause this continues to be a problem. I wished Ford would get away from the vacuum system... It is a problem that doesn't go away , and I will probably trade for a Chevrolet in the near future .
Chris
I feel your pain. I too have a 2013 and have had this issue with a grinding noise since new. Have had IWEs and hubs replaced a number of times and now my truck is out of warranty. Very frustrated as it holds vacuum. Thinking of shimming my IWE by a few thosands to see if that helps.
Lars Strasser
A vacuum pump is a great tool to diagnose this system. You can apply vacuum to test lines and isolated components or use it as a gauge. If you apply vacuum to the IWE vacuum actuator and it does not hold, it is likely the problem. Applying vacuum to the lines allows you to wiggle them and check for leaks. You can also check the solenoid, vacuum reservoir and both check valves.
Ej
I need some suggestions. I'm getting the grinding noise, mostly at higher speeds on my 07 expedition. It goes away when I disconnect the vacuum lines. But I've already replaced the solenoid, vacuum lines, check valves, hub actuators, and the hubs and still get the noise. It's more noticeable going uphill. Any ideas?
Kenny
So I'm kinda having the same problem but it sounds like my tire is rubbing on a finder but it isn't a constant rub. And only happens when going down hill about to come to a stop. Or if I'm pulling my boat and coasting down hill. And also It will stop all together after truck warms up.
Steve
Mine Iwe failed a second time at 41k miles...dealer quoted me 586, I called ford support line, area service manager talked with dealer service manager, and they covered it under 60k power train warranty.
Steve
Mine Iwe failed a second time at 41k miles...dealer quoted me 586, I called ford support line, area service manager talked with dealer service manager, and they covered it under 60k power train warranty.
Jason
Thought I had an IWE failure as well. 120,000km on the truck, all the usual noises and the LF hub would not unlock. All circuits tested fine. Removed IWE unit and found that a damaged needle bearing for the outer axle shaft ( inside of the hub assembly ) The bearing had completely dried up and come apart, causing the axle shaft to skew slightly and bind up the IWE unit with the hub assembly. Upon close inspection the bearing surface is destroyed on the axle shaft as well. I assume the other side isn't far behind. This really irritates me because the truck is just out of warranty and I don't believe it just happened all of a sudden. I am trying to find the needle bearing size or part number because the main wheel bearing is in perfect shape. IF anybody has any info please msg me.
Tom
Could you please tell us what they finally figured out what was wrong with it & what was replaced to fix it?
John Nelson
I have had problems with noises in the front end since day one and I bought the truck new. I kept complaining about the noise, but the service dept said there was nothing wrong with it. The noise kept getting worse as time went by. During the last oil change I mentioned, again, about the noise and that it was getting worse and the service tech said that the engineers finally figured out what the noise was about. It took them two years. Wait a minute, I thought there was nothing wrong with it. Lies? To make a long story short and after 4 times in for repair and many parts changed out, the noise is finally gone. They replaced the IWEs two times along with the solenoid and a hub. The solenoid or hub was not the problem, but it told me they were guessing. What next? Nissan or Honda, here I come and I have been a Ford fan all my life. I could go on with all the other problems I have had with this truck for hours, but they have lost a customer. Bye.
Tom
Sorry, selected the wrong "reply". John, Could you please tell us what they finally figured out what was wrong with it & what was replaced to fix it? Thanks
Scott
Not sure if you're still looking for the part... but it's the same for 2009-2012. Search this part #1S12253 on www.rockauto.com.
Brad
I have a 2010 F150 that has had this problem for awhile. I can’t seem to find a solenoid anywhere online for my year F150. I plan to change the solenoid, hubs and possibly lines because she has over 200k miles. Does anyone know where I can get a solenoid for the 2010?
Scott
Sorry, I clicked on the wrong "reply" link above. Not sure if you're still looking for the part... but it's the same for 2009-2012. Search this part #1S12253 on www.rockauto.com.
Joe
I have a 2011 F150 5.0. Truck will not engage 4hi or 4lo. No grinding noise at all. Dash used to indicate 4x2 when not in 4x4. Now 4x2 is not showing at all. Checked fuses, all look good. Anyone help me out? Thank you!
WIL
2012 F150. ON LIFT THE WHEELS TURN WHEN IN 4X4. WHEN PUT ON THE GROUND AND GET ON DRY SURFACE, DO NOT GET THE BINDING AFFECT AS YOU SHOULD IN 4X4. IWE'S LOOK GREAT AND CAN APPLY VAC TO MAKE THEM ENGAGE AND DISENGAGE. ANY IDEAS
[email protected]
Hey Wil. That sounds more like a transfer case or relay issue than a problem with the IWEs.
Collette
I also have a 2013 F-150 making the rubbing/grinding sound in 2 wheel when I slow down and turn right. Now I put it in 4 high and it is fine going straight but when I turn the grinding is intense im going on a trip and dont want anything bad to happen opinions please
[email protected]
Hey Collette. I would look into your IWE vacuum line. It's likely that there's a tear that's opening up when you turn, but closing itself off when you're going straight, which is exactly what happened to my truck.
Collette
I also have a 2013 F-150 making the rubbing/grinding sound in 2 wheel when I slow down and turn right. Now I put it in 4 high and it is fine going straight but when I turn the grinding is intense im going on a trip and dont want anything bad to happen opinions please
Arthur Axelson
I’m experiencing all of the above right now. I pop it in four-wheel-drive and all the noise and issues go away. I would like to diagnose it further before ordering a bunch of parts and tearing apart my front end. How do I go about testing vacuum in the actuators?
[email protected]
Hey, Arthur. The solenoid is fairly easy to test, since it should be allowing vacuum through or not depending on your drivetrain settings. To test it, simply pull off it's output line and check for flow. The actuators and the vacuum lines are bit harder to test unless you have a vacuum tester of some sort. Even then, the actuators may look like they're functioning while the truck is still, but could have grind once the truck's rolling.
Mason Taylor
Seams like we are having the same issue
Kevin
2011 f150 5.0 , problem is when I put mine into 4 high it has bad clicking noise in driver front, seems to go into 4 high but nasty clicking noise ,,55000 miles
Kevin
Re my 2011 f150 , I also drove 3hours threw one of the worst rain storms , any ideas before I start throwing $$ at it. Thanks
Kevin
2011 f150 5.0 , problem is when I put mine into 4 high it has bad clicking noise in driver front, seems to go into 4 high but nasty clicking noise ,,55000 miles
JOSH
I had the same problem in 4wd. Replaced the actuators and problem solved.
[email protected]
Hey Kevin. Unfortunately, that does not sound like an IWE-related issue (though I guess it could be). You may want to look into your front differential (especially if its fluid hasn't been changed in a while) or your CVs.
Mason Taylor
I have the grinding on my drivers side actuator but only when i shift into 4x4 and underload when driving in 2wd no issues at all. Had the truck in the air running in 4x4, I spun both front tires and they were both engaged and spinning the cv shafts. Due to where i live 4x4 is necessary most of the year. Any idea on what would be causing this?
JOSH
I had the same problem in 4wd. Replaced the actuators and problem solved.
[email protected]
Hey, Mason. In general, most IWE grinding happens in 2WD, due to the actuators not receiving enough vacuum to fully disengage from the hub. If you're getting a grind in 4WD only, then you may want to check that your CVs are correctly splined and greased, though it's tough to say without being there.
Chuck Taylor
My 04 F150 with 350,000 km has made a scraping grinding noise twice. Once last week and once this week. It was very noticeable and I thought it was ice rubbing on the wheels. I got out and couldn't see anything. It stopped a couple minutes later. It was back today and it happens both when in gear and not in gear. Strange thing is that it will stop for a few seconds after shifting into 4x4.
[email protected]
Hey, Chuck. That's a classic sign of an IWE issue. Just make sure to verify your part numbers before going out to hunt them down, since this guide is for 2011-2014 F150s.
Steve
Steve
I have a ‘11 Harley f150 with awd & 4H. I’m getting a grinding/binding noise and followed by a pretty descent pop/clunk it only does this when I’m turning at slower speeds in 4H. Drives fine when going straight and no problems turning in 2H. I bought the truck with 80k on it. It was very very clean and owned by an older geltmen so I don’t believe it was abused at all. The only time I use the 4x4 is to get in and out of my dirt road and I’m not pushing it at all.
Dave
Just bought a 2018 F150 4x4. In 2 wheel grinding started the first day, then quit for a day. Then it started again i recorded the sound. The truck is now at the dealers and I have a loaner. Truck only has 500 miles on it. As of right now have no idea when I will get my new truck back. It sure sounds like this is the problem though
Rick
My 2011 f150 4x4 5.0 makes a loud clicking noise in 2wd felt and heard on the driver side front wheel when reversing and turning wheels to the right. Like when backing out of a parking spot. Could this be related?
Ned T
I have just started having problems with transfer in 4WH on a 2012 F150 XT? 78 K km It sound like the IWE/vacuum problem but the main grinding/vacuum whistle is when I try to put it in 4WH and while driving in 4WH. Turn back to 2WD and no grinding/whistle evident. Not sure which side it is on - too frigging cold to check Any thoughts? 1)Noticed a clunky jerking at fair lock on reverse or front turn when in 4WH a few times (this may be a different problem). But I have started turning it to 2WD to park 2) -35 C (plugged in warmed up) reversed out of drive in 2WD and started forward put in 4WH (I think), traction loss symbol illuminated and it feels like I am pushing the front end (100 L/km fuel consumption) because I am pushing the front end. 3) Took out of 4WH seemed to settled down. 4) At lunch 2WH reversed/forward OK put into 4WH a whirr/grind vacuum whistle. 5) Tried a few more times same problem to lesser degree. 6) There does not appear to much drag in 2WD but not sure (it doesn't seem quite right but no load noise reasonable ~12L/km showing so no really labouring) It is he problem with a "never been driven in winter car fist -20 C the rad hose o ring blow, second cold day and this. I will park it up until it gets warmer
Ryan
Wow! Ned you are having the exact same problem my 2013 f150 platinum. I have developed a roaring noise when my truck is cold. It takes place when I accelerate and turn. It feels like it is still in 4H when it’s in 2wd. It has been unusually cold in the area and I also just had to replace my O ring in my t connector. 78k miles. I wonder if it has anything to do with the antifreeze leaking down on the front axle.
Fred
Anyone have the part # for the vacuum switch for the 2012 f150 ecoboost. I oaundve looked up and down and have not found it. Found yg-360, but amazon says it does not fit my 2012.
Dan
You may want to try part #yg429.
Fred
Anyone have the part # for the vacuum switch for the 2012 f150 ecoboost. I oaundve looked up and down and have not found it. Found yg-360, but amazon says it does not fit my 2012.
Steven
My 2014 F150 Tuscany grinds in 4x4 but quits in 2x4. We recently had snow and ice a couple weeks ago and the 4x4 worked great for about 10 minutes then started grinding. The front hubs aren’t locking up, the 4x4 light is on so this is a little different problem than what I’ve been reading here. It has 29,000 miles on it but out of warranty. Hopefully the power train warranty is 60,000. Taking it to the ford dealership I bought it from new in 2015.
Steven
The only thing that has me concerned about the power train warranty is that I had the dealership install a Roush Phase 2 supercharger. Guess I’ll find out. I’ve only used the 4x4 less than 5 miles since I bought it.
Craig B.
Ok so replaced hubs on '13 F150 4X4, it needed hubs anyway at 84,000mi. While driving home from shop I'm hearing a vibration coming from front drive. When I engage 4 high the vibration stops. If I shift back to 2 high while moving, the vibration seems to stay away until I let off the gas pedal then press it again.
Craig B.
Why does shifting into 4H stop the vibration? Otherwise 4WD seems to operate properly.
Steven
Craig B. I had an OffRoad shop do a gear swap last year and they damaged the IWEs that caused vibration, took it to dealer and had them replaced. Problem solve. I never tried 4x4 to see if the vibration went away though. Not saying you damaged them but everything seems to be pretty fragile on these vacuum lockers. Hope someone comes along here with more knowledge to help you.
Bob
Has anyone noticed a decrease in fuel mileage when this is happening? 2017 3.5L - started making noise at 4k - now at almost 16k and after 3 or 4 trips into dealer they finally were able to verify the issue and stop saying that they cannot repeat it. Sounds like parts are on back order for awhile as well. Have never gotten close to the fuel mileage that is advertised, so that is why I ask. Thanks and I hope they fix this problem for all of us.
James
I can feel transfer case engage and have a slight grinding when I turn and also when I put it 4x4 and put it in a bind it kicks out off 4x4...IWEs ya think?
Dave
GREAT ARTICLE. THANK YOU. A few questions. The service manager told me that uneven height tires can also cause this problem! One of my front tires is much newer than the other so they're aren't the same size. Is he correct or full of it? I believe mine is only doing it on the passenger size. Does that point to wiring or a bad actuator? There is only one actuator for both sides? Will repairs fall under warranty?
Damon McDowell
I seem to be having the exact issue with my ford. 4x4 engages then disengages are 5 minutes. No grinding. Was wondering what you found.
Rick Armstrong
Expedition 2012, same as F150. Problem with the IWE is that the vacuum is not released. I checked the voltage going to the solenoid and strangely there is voltage regardless of the position of the 4WD dial, I expected zero in either 4 wheel or 2 wheel. However, in the 4H and 4L position the top of the solenoid hisses, in 2H it is quiet - clearly some vacuum is being released as designed and maybe it is a differential in voltage. I put the vehicle on blocks: by discounting the vacuum line to the wheels from the solenoid, it locks in fine, in 4H or 4L. Replace the line and hubs fully disconnect. I get none of the grinding caused by half in or half out and obviously no vacuum leaks. I replaced the solenoid - is it possible that it is defective? I see a check valve but it is between solenoid and engine. Could it be that the new solenoid is defective. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Rick
John kostelnik
i have a 07 f-150 and the vacuum hose keeps falling of the nipple on the iwe hub. is there a good way to keep it on?
Chris W
Ok,.So I had the issue of the 4xr trying to engage before I'm my 04 F150, fixed it with the little vacuum thing under hood.kn the firewall. I was out on a trail and ran across my brother who was stuck. I booked a strap to him and put the slightest amount of pressure on it and my front right something broke loose and the cv axle would just spin inside the hub I'm assuming. I'm trying to get an idea of what broke before testing into it as it is my only mode of transportation. It's been a year or so and I'm finally getting around to fixing it. When 4x4 is disengaged, it drives fine with no noise, but if I lock it in, if will make a pop and the axle with spin without spinning the tire. Hub? Axle? Something else? Thanks, Chris.
Brian Langston
We have a 2010 F150 with these actuators. Found out that despite getting plenty of vacuum the drivers side hub was stuck engaged in 2wd. The passenger side spun freely. This has been causing the anxiety shafts to spin in the opposite direction for an undetermined time. I ran the truck in 4wd to stop the axles from opposing each other only to have the drive train bind up while trying to make a turn. Is it safe to say that the front diff is toast?
Dan
What is the Solinoid part #? On several sights gave a part # 7l1Z9H465B or 7L1Z-h465-B. Another site said it doesn’t fit a 2013 F150 Lariat. With eco boost. Thanks for your help.
Casey
I think I will start by replacing the iwe vacuum lines, then will probably need to replace the HUBS and the solenoid. Where can I buy all of this and how much does it cost? Anyone know of any good youtube videos to follow? I'm very unfamiliar with my f150.
matt
does 4x2 light srat on im the king ranch 2013
Sean
I have a 2012 F150 XLT 5.0. with 113,000. For the past couple months my locking differential dash light comes on when I start the truck and it is below freezing. If I try to drive right away the locking differential try's to engage. I have to either ever so lightly press the 4x4 switch in OR let it warm up for 5 plus minutes and the light turns off and I don't have any issues. I asked my local mechanic but he parked it inside overnight and therefore couldn't duplicate it, of course :) I would appreciate any suggestions you guys may have.
Tommy
Can a bad IWE cause the bearing to fail afterward? I detected the IWE problem when I started to hear humming sounds from the front wheels. I feel it was the driver but when I check for signs the IWE vacuum line on the passenger side was disconnected so I connected the line but sound was still there so I suspect the passenger IWE was broken but after opening it, it look all fine. Now if we look up at the system, both vac lines work together so the driver's side IWE was swithing back and fourth from 2x4 to 4x4 even on high speed which could grind the teeth. So I open it and in fact there was metal deposit in the grease. Now I clean this up and put new grease and still have a humming sound. So can the bad grease got inside the wheel bearing and cause the humming sound ? The bearing looks to be sealed.
Nikki
I have a 2017 f150, only in 4x4 when turning or backing up, it is like the back wheels lock up and I can't move. any ideas?? I am so frustrated.
Josh
I had a 2005 F-150 and I was in and out of the front end way to often. I now have a 2014 that is giving me grief. I lifted the truck 6" with 35's and putting it back together a vacuum line was left about 3mm away from hitting the bottom ring on the plastic junction. I had some grinding and it took me a bit to figure out the root cause. Once I found it I was not happy with my work to say the least. Fast forward, the 4x4 still seemed off. I had it up on a jack and noticed the passenger side was rolling the drive shaft in 2H. low and behold the actuator had cracked. I replaced it and the hub with Moog and replaced the vacuum solenoid as a precaution. It was ok for a bit and now its back to locked in again. Reason I know is I went from 13.4 MPG to 12.2 MPG plus a lift and hand rollof the tire in 2H proved it. I drive it to and from work for the most part and not much more. My wife has a 2016 Platinum and that thing is awesome in and out of 4x4. Mine makes me sad.... Where I am today is why I am posting this. I live in NW PA and had my truck inspected yesterday to find it needs front brakes. Seeing I will be into the front end I want to end this 4x4 madness for good. If that is even possible! Here are some things I have been pondering and let me know your thoughts. 1. Did the lack of vacuum on the drivers side cause the actuator/bearing assembly/drive shaft to wear just enough to not let it function/slide in and out smoothly? I mean it goes in and out of 4x4 but seems to disengage every so often. Should I refresh all components and hope for the best? 2. Does anyone make UPGRADED materials as in the actuator or hub to strengthen this weak design? 3. Any other thoughts or suggestions? I am at the point now where if this does not fix it the truck is done. I mean its a pretty truck and I love my Fords, but i hate the IWE system. I will be going to a F-250 with trusty ol mechanical lock in hubs. I appreciate the time to read this and any advice you might have to save "Fancy" from a for sale sign. Josh
Carless Wiley
I replaced all my vacuum lines, and still had a noise going on! So when advance auto and got two port one way valve and so far it's fixed, so change your valve, it's cheapest part in use system! It worked for me, good luck everyone.
Carless Wiley
I replaced all my vacuum lines, and still had a noise going on! So when advance auto and got two port one way valve and so far it's fixed, so change your valve, it's cheapest part in iwe system! It worked for me, good luck everyone.
Kyle Osterhage
Have a 2012 Platinum, i had a grind at all speeds, changed accuators, both hubs, check value, solinoid, and vacuum lines. I do not have it at low speeds anymore, but i am getting the grind after about 30 minutes of driving at highway speeds. Grind goes away after i switch to 4wd auto. Both accuators hold vacuum when tested. What can it be, i have replaced all parts, accu and sol multiple times. Vacuum pump is working fine. Ford checked altinator thinking it was bad, but it checked out also. Driving me nuts. THanks
andrew
I had the same as everyone here but all I did was pull the end of the passenger tube/hose off the actuator and blow into them at 80psi with compressed air. then i pulled the tubes of the solenoid and sprayed air in the passenger end tube/hose again. Then i pulled off the driver tube/hose from driver actuator and sprayed in the passenger end again. Then I hooked up all hoses and drove. problem was gone. dust and dirt in the lines causes issues.
Tommy
I have a 2013 Lariat,I notice the grinding sound first at 20k miles. I went to four ford dealships before they could duplicate the problem. actuators and hubs were replaced. Same problem at 40k miles, again the hubs and actuators were replaced. And again at 60k miles but could not be duplicated. I now have 105k and they are still bad. Any idea what I can do. What’s making them go bad?
andrew
I had the same as everyone here but all I did was pull the end of the passenger tube/hose off the actuator and blow into them at 80psi with compressed air. then i pulled the tubes of the solenoid and sprayed air in the passenger end tube/hose again. Then i pulled off the driver tube/hose from driver actuator and sprayed in the passenger end again. Then I hooked up all hoses and drove. problem was gone. dust and dirt in the lines causes issues.
Mark
I have a 2011 F150 3.5 EcoBoost. I have a noise that sou da more like a rattle than a grind. Happens in 2wd and goes away when I let up off the accelerator. Haven't tried putting in 4wd yet. Has 144k miles . Just got it . A well taken care of truck. Is this the same issue
Tony
2017 F150 King Ranch. 29K miles Thought my dealer fixed it, but it only lasted one day. From reading a few issues on line I have the major grinding issues at all speeds now. Looks like I’m another victim of the actuator problem they seem to have. Thoughts?
Jonathan Fkynn
Could a vacuums leak on my purge valve stuck open cause me to not have enough vaccune to hold my iwe’s ?
Brian H
I have a 2013 F150 5.0 v8, and like Mason Taylor posted on 1/2/18, my 2WD runs beautifully. But, when I shift into 4H and make the slightest turn the grinding from under the driver's side floorboards is just horrible. If I read these threads correctly, this is opposite of how a vacuum/IWE issue would manifest, correct? Good 2WD = Good vacuum? Has anyone else had this particular issue? I will probably ask the mechanic to focus on the CV joint as a recommended first step (from Jason), but just wanted to check.
Nick
Replaced the lines, check valve, solenoid, and actuators. Truck still does not want to disengage after being in 4x4. (Truck shifts back to 2wd and the light on dash goes back to 2wd) however the front end feels like it is still engaged, and grinds after the switch. I'm now replacing the Hubs to hopefully see if that takes care of the problem. Also, my 2013 F150 called for moog part #515412. Hopefully that info will save someone time that's unfortunately in the same spot as many of us. I'll update if my problem is resolved
Paul
I have a 2013 F150 FX4, when taking the truck out of 4 wheel drive low, I get a shift in progress light on the dash and hear a loud clicking/grinding noise. When this occurs, it will not shift out of 4 wheel drive low. I have to move it in and out several times for it to shift out of 4 wheel drive. Any help would be appreciated.
Michelle
I have the same issue with the grinding noise..I had the brakes and rotors replaced 3 weeks ago and it started just a few days after. Is is possible that when the brakes and rotors got done that they could have hit one of the vacuum lines? Also a question is...would a Ford dealer ever disconnect these lines to stop the issue?
Ken
My buddy has a '00 Jeep Cherokee AWD. It was making a weird clunking sound when turning left at low speeds and it sounded like it was in the axel like a CV joint or something so he just took the axel off. It help but still continued to make the noise. Tonight he went to go in reverse and it locked up. Still goes forward fine and you can feel it shift but no reverse. Any ideas?
Randall Chaisson
sounds like a mickey mouse system to me .Ford wake up . My brother is having the same problem with his 2017 Lariat with 8000 miles .I was considering Ford because I was thinking they were better than GM now I have my doubts.
Jonathan
My 2009 f150 5.4L is making the “bunch of loose washers rattling on a bolt”, or dragging one of those old steel lawn rakes over the pavement, only when I turn right at around 40 mph, and/or I hit a bump or washboarded road. I’m hoping I’m catching this early enough so that the hubs aren’t toast. I’ve changed the solenoid out. Noise doesn’t occur at all in 4H, 4L and 4H work fine. My next step is to change the vacuum lines. Does anyone have that part #? I’ve seen like three different styles/part numbers, but cannot figure out which one I need, as mine is the type with the solenoid and pressure resevoir mounted up on the radiator fan shroud. Has been frustrating because I cannot find anything about the 2009’s part/design changing, and none of the diagrams or parts that I HAVE found, look correct- it’s always “ mounted on firewall”, or “by the brake booster”, or “behind the battery”... anyone know what I’m talking about, or better yet, the actual part number for new vacuum lines, (for the fan shroud mounted solenoid type) for the 2009 f150’s? Thanks!
Jason
Hello I am experiencing the same problem of grinding in 2WD put it in 4WD goes away on a 2012 expedition 80000km, Ford Dealer saying something about kickdown actuator. My question is do these problems require any transmission work usually additionally to hub bearings this vacuum line, I will go over the quote details. This has been a good blog useful information Thank-you Jason
Pierre hobeika
While mounting long tube headers on my 2011 mustang gt we jacked the engin a litle bit sudenlly water was dripping beneth the car,did we damage any water or hoses?
Chris
So I am having a problem with my 2010 F-150 I have spent about 1000$ trying to fix it and still has same problem. It’s had this grinding noise In the front for about a year now, it only happens with a load on it. Take my foot off the gas and it stops. Only happens above 30mph and below 55mph. And the rpms seem to twitch while it does it. I thought it was the suspension so I changed the front hub assemblies, upper control arms, ball joints and I still had the grinding. So i thought the 4WD actuators were malfunctioning so I changed them. Still have the grind noise. So I changed the solenoid and the check valve for the actuators still grinds. I have Karl’s off-road looking at it and he doesn’t know what’s going on. He took the vacuum lines off to disengage the actuators and it still grinds. It seems the drive shaft won’t disengage. But it has good vacuum and it holds. Idk what else this could be ?? Any thoughts?
Rebel
I'm having the same problem with my 2009 F-150 Platinum on the passenger side. I've been through all the same trouble shooting steps... solenoid, check valve, actuators, etc. The shop says it's got vacuum pressure, but still can't figure out where the problem is... I have to assume there's a leak somewhere in the vacuum lines that I can't find. I would really like to be able to enjoy my truck again.
Niko
Hey I've had my 2015 f150 eco boost xlt since 2016 and love it other than a few flaws one being this stupid IWE system which I fixed, starting with the lines then a new iwe. The problem for me was in the lines.. However I'm colorado based and would love to help folks with any questions or even work they may have.
David
2014 XLT WHEN I shift into 4low dash shows shift in process roll fwd but I have no drie or reverse. When I take it out and into 4high I have drive and reverse again. Pleas help
William parker
I recently installed a 6inch lift put everything up front new, but pumpkin. No noises in 2wd, put in 4wd and hear a clicking sound like it's coming from front driveshaft. Both fronts are locked, rough country said might have to reclock driveshaft because it might vibrate. Can a driveshaft click? Its 2 piece. Before the lift I had no noises. Any ideas anyone. Goes in and out 4wd with ease no noise at all.
Kristina
Aaahhhhh!!!! I've read all these threads and have spent way to much $ at the dealership. I've changed the iwe solenoid,actuators,vaccine tubes and hubs. Just got it back from ford and with a couple weeks all was damaged the traction light was on. Locked up on the freeway but managed to get it to the side of the road jerking and grinding. This is a 2016 f150 sport. 2 years old!! Towed it back to ford as it wont drive without a jerk and grind. Ford immediately blames the tire offset and 6 inch lift..which wasnt an issue to them before. Now I have busted rotors and who knows what else now. After reading these threads i see these issues with stock f150s so I'm having a hard time believing its offset and lift. Ford has no idea but to tell me to remove the lift and tires and replace all the new parts....wth ... anyone having these issues with 2016 ecoboost f150? Feels like I'm stuck paying for a 2 yr old truck I wint be able to drive...any advice would be appreciated.
John Adank
I just wanted to share my experience with the IWE’s as well. I have a 2014 F150 Super crew Platinum. I took my truck into the ford dealer on 12/06/16 because of the same noises everyone here has described. I had 47,573 miles on the truck at the time. The mechanic noted on the work order that he installed chaser ears-found to be in ft lock outs, did pin point test d, found ice leaking, install 2 new iwe’s-recheck ok no noise. Hopefully, you can understand that description as that is how it’s state on the work order. The iwe’s were replaced under warranty so I was not charged. Anyway, it’s 11/13/18 and I have 71,874 miles on my truck and I’m starting to hear the same exact sound. I called the dealership and explained the problem and that I just had the iwe’s replaced in December of 2016. They told me to bring the truck in and they will replace the iwe’s under warratny if that in fact is the issue. They told me there’s a 2-year unlimited mileage warratny on those parts. I guess in this case it payed to have the dealership do the initial repair. No idea what it would have cost.
John Adank
I just wanted to share my experience with the IWE’s as well. I have a 2014 F150 Super crew Platinum. I took my truck into the ford dealer on 12/06/16 because of the same noises everyone here has described. I had 47,573 miles on the truck at the time. The mechanic noted on the work order that he installed chaser ears-found to be in ft lock outs, did pin point test d, found iwe’s leaking, install 2 new iwe’s-recheck ok no noise. Hopefully, you can understand that description as that is how it’s stated on the work order. The iwe’s were replaced under warranty so I was not charged. Anyway, it’s 11/13/18 and I have 71,874 miles on my truck and I’m starting to hear the same exact sound. I called the dealership and explained the problem and that I just had the iwe’s replaced in December of 2016. They told me to bring the truck in and they will replace the iwe’s under warratny if that in fact is the issue. They told me there’s a 2-year unlimited mileage warratny on those parts. I guess in this case it payed to have the dealership do the initial repair. No idea what it would have cost.
John Adank
Update 11/14/18. I dropped my F150 off this morning at the dealership and was informed that if the IWE’s need to replaced again that they will not be covered under warranty like previously stated. I was told that the replacement of the IWE’s in December were replaced under the original manufacture warranty period and those parts only have a 12 month warranty. If they need replacing today, I have to pay for it but it will have a 2 year warranty on the parts. What a bunch of crap. I’ll let you know how much the damage is later today. I’m guessing a $1,000
John
I have a 2012 F-150 swapped brakes on my truck new rotors and pads after completing work I test drove it and the humming road noise on passenger side . Engaged 4x4 and the noise went away reengaged noise comes back . Disconnected the wiring harness from actuator on the firewall by the brake booster. Noise went away . I am assuming a loss of vacuum somewhere being we just did brakes vacuum hoses ? What do I think I have never had this noise before.. that said mine is constant above say 40 like a mud tire on the highway
Darwin
Although people on this thread seem to be having different issues, yours sounds exactly like mine. Not sure if you have rectified it or not. What I have found is that the hubs are normally locked when there is no vacuum (vehicle shut off). When the vehicle is started and the selector is in 2wd, the vacuum is supposed to disengage the hubs. I believe that in. Y case and yours, one of the hubs is not disengaging. I believe that what is then happening is the driveshaft to the front differential is ‘parked’. Then what I believe is happening is that the locked hub is causing the front differential to transmit the locked turning axle to the unlocked free axle. When this happens, it will be causing the free axle to spin in reverse, effectively causing a very fast differential speed in the hub. I believe that is why it sounds like a heavy lug tire. I don’t think bearings will last too long in that environment. I my case, it just started in really cold weather. After I drove in 4wd for about 20 miles, I tried 2wd again and it disengaged. I shut the truck off for about an hour and the problem was there again. Let me know if your problem is fixed and what it was.
John
Or would that mean that disengaging the actuator opened it like it had 4x4 on and engaged the hubs by cutting the vacume ? How does the actuator valve work is it normally open or normally closed . Is it normally open when powered to provide vacume to use and closed when 4x4 is engaged to cut the vacume ? How could swapping rotors even cause this failure
James
I also have the same problem. I had no problems until I let some one test drive it with just over 54,000 miles as it is for sale. After the would be new owners returned the man asked if I had any issues with 4x4 that it's making a noise. In short I never had an issue. Now I have replaced the solenoid, vacuum line harness - still noise in 2 wheel drive. Switch to 4 hi no noise. Just purchased new actuators to install on Sunday 11/24/2018. Sounds like this may not solve the problem. Maybe I'll just tear the guts out of the old actuators and leave it in 2 wheel drive only.
James
I also have the same problem. I had no problems until I let some one test drive it with just over 54,000 miles as it is for sale. After the would be new owners returned the man asked if I had any issues with 4x4 that it's making a noise. In short I never had an issue. Now I have replaced the solenoid, vacuum line harness - still noise in 2 wheel drive. Switch to 4 hi no noise. Just purchased new actuators to install on Sunday 11/25/2018. Sounds like this may not solve the problem. Maybe I'll just tear the guts out of the old actuators and leave it in 2 wheel drive only. If that's possible - 2013 F-150 STX
Doug
I have a 14 F-150that is having the grinding noise. Is this covered under my extended warrenty
shari bradshaw
I have a 2013 F150 Eco The noise started once the brakes and rotors were replaced? Now they have replaced wheel bearings and several other things. I hope someone can help. Truck has 62,000 miles on it. And its had the other part mentioned above also. Thanks
Lee
2012 FX4, 85k miles, same grinding/rattling noise as described above occurred only in 2wd, noise stopped when 4wd engaged. Changed out driver side actuator, noise was still there. Turns out there was a crack in the hose/line. Swapped out hose, now it's nice and quiet. When the system loses suction, the actuator stays partially engaged, causing the grinding/rattling.
Ozkar
Hello, i have 2011 ford f150 ecoboost, makes a grinding/rattle noise front end. the noise starts while is parked or going slow or stopping. A change brakes bt still making thst noise.
R.S.
I have a 2014 XLT 5.0 w/118,000mi and had no issues with 4wd up until yesterday when I got stuck in a rut and while trying to rock back and forth out I heard a loud metal clang and subsequent grinding. My issue is the grinding is only when 4wd is engaged and I accelerate above 1400-1500rpm if I ease into it and keep under 1000rpm there is no grinding. Also no grinding when in reverse regardless of rpm. Shifts fine from 4wd back to 2wd and no grinding while in 2wd. I lifted the front end and rotated the wheel in 2wd and only the wheel turned as it's supposed to (no turning of the cv axle). I then engaged 4wd and tried rotating the wheel it didn't rotate as it also is supposed to. Am i somehow losing vacuum when i accelerate above 1400rpm causing 4wd to try to engage?..Any help would be appreciated.
Derek
I'm also experiencing the same issues on my 2012 XLT. No grinding noise until I throw it in 4x4 and then I get a loud clunk followed by grinding. I have reason to believe it's the hub, but I'm looking for clarification before i start swapping out parts. HELP!
Jason
I have a 2010 ford F-150 XTR. My problem is that when I put my truck in 4wd and accelerate there is a grinding noise coming from left front. The 4wd is not working as only my back wheels are spinning. The dash light shows 4wd is engaged and switches back to 2wd fine. Makes no noise at all when in 2wd, any ideas?
Paul Cooley
I had the same grinding come on quickly. 2010 F150 5.4 4wd. I knew nothing but have traced the problem to the iwe system. Here is what I did. Replace the solenoid and check valve, no change. Lift the vehicle wheels off the ground, start the engine, rotate the wheels and the left one rotates freely while the right front wheel turns the driveshaft to the RF wheel. I blew out the the vacuum line from both ends and the problem is still there. What I did do then was listen for vacuum from the solenoid and the vacuum isn't strong to the LF wheel and faint to the RF wheel, ( less vacuum RF ) which sounds like a leak in the lines with the RF line the more likely culprit because of the amount of difference and being further away from the vacuum source on the Driver firewall. Problem goes away in 4WH. Thus, I don't think its the actuators but instead think its a line leak on the RF side. The lines don't look simple to me to replace because some of them are hoses, double hoses and what almost appears to be a braided or metal line. Am I on the right track? Where do I get an exact fit vacuum line that I can remove and replace for the RF or LF.? Paul
Sara
I have an 2005 Ford F-150, and it had a grinding sound from front end upon acceleration or climbing hills. Changed the solenoid, hubs, and IWE’s. and passenger side disengaged but not the drivers side. Getting frustrated. Replacing vacuum lines tomorrow, hopefully that fixes it. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
Sara
Ok, I replaced the vacuum lines and it seemed like it fixed it for a little bit. Then got out on the highway, went to exit off highway and I faintly heard the grinding again. I have replaced everything,
Erich
I have a 2015 F-150 Platinum 5.0 V8 with 35k miles on it. I just started to hear the grinding/humming noise end of last week. The grinding/humming noise only happens when I am in 2wd and driving at a speed of 5-15mph so low RPM and low MPH and slightly turning the wheel to the right (like I'm getting ready to make a right turn). Once I bring the wheel back straight or to the left it immediately stops. Does not make the noise when at high speeds either. I called the dealer this morning and explained everything that is going on, also I've been reading this forum since last night so I am assuming it is the IWE which I told the dealer. Bringing it in on Monday to get it checked out, is there anything else I should tell the dealer that may cause the issue so they can get straight to the root cause or just have them check everything (hub, valve, vacuum, etc..)?
Jason
What did the dealer tell you? I'm curious because this is my problem with 2014 Lariat version.
Reed
Well I’ve had this humming noise coming from what I thought were my tires. I went and bought new tires for my 2013 F150 4x4 thinking that would solve it but nope. I read some online posts and thought the noise was being caused by me bearings in my hub assemblies so I replaced those but that didn’t work. I read another post and thought it could be the solenoid and check valve but that didn’t fix the noise. Finally, I discovered it was my 4wd actuator on my front passenger side. Took me 3 hours to change out the actuator ($95 Oreillys). Problem fixed! This whole situation has been a pain in the rear. Why would my original actuator completely fail with only 30k miles on my F150? Pathetic.
Keith
Quick question. I have a 2014 Ford F-150. I went out to my deer lease one night and had to engage in 4-High. When I got home, the next day I noticed my hub actuator vaccuum hose was cut in two and I had a oil or trans leak coming from between the engine and trans. My buddy popped the cover off and said that he thought it was my trans fluid because it was coming from behind the torque converter and had a reddish tint to it. So that day I repaired my hub actuator vacuum hose and all of sudden, no more trans leak. I know that the hub actuator pulls vacuum off the engine. and so I’m confused as to why the leak stopped when I fixed the actuator line? I do amhave plenty of oil and while I can’t check my trans fluid, I know there’s plenty in it as the over night leaking was only a few drips and I have never had a leak prior to that. Any help would be appreciated.
Keith
Quick question. I have a 2014 Ford F-150. I went out to my deer lease one night and had to engage in 4-High. When I got home, the next day I noticed my hub actuator vaccuum hose was cut in two and I had a oil or trans leak coming from between the engine and trans. My buddy popped the cover off and said that he thought it was my trans fluid because it was coming from behind the torque converter and had a reddish tint to it. So that day I repaired my hub actuator vacuum hose and all of sudden, no more trans leak. I know that the hub actuator pulls vacuum off the engine. and so I’m confused as to why the leak stopped when I fixed the actuator line? I do amhave plenty of oil and while I can’t check my trans fluid, I know there’s plenty in it as the over night leaking was only a few drips and I have never had a leak prior to that. Any help would be appreciated.
Cody Inman
I have a 2012 F150 it’s on a 6” lift with 35x12.5 tires which could be the cause of this but I believe I’m having the same issue with the IWE except when it comes to stopping the truck starts to bounce a bit as if the rotor is warped except I recently replaced both front rotors and pads with new thinking that was the problem. The truck quit making the noise for probably 100miles the started up again I’ve taken the rotors of and checked them and they seem to be fine (not warped) I’m gonna check the vaccine lines and make sure there aren’t any leakes I know the issue is my front driver side assembly. If anyone’s got any suggestions on what might be causeing the bouncing I will gladly look into it and let you guys know what I discover
Mirsad Mahmutovic
I have same problem, when transmission downshift skips from 3rd-1st gear(it is normal ford trans tune) and begin to stall engine because 3rd gear to high for vehicle moving speed with 35 tires.. How to verify this put in manual and shift with manual button at appropriate RPM... Only fix I can think of custom transmission tune without skipping 2 gear on downshift...
Sean Arnoup
Hi from across the pond (UK) and apologies for jumping in with a different Ford model, which may already be covered in the Ranger section, but please read on… I find this an interesting thread and it has taken me lots of net surfing to find something similar that matches my present / ongoing experience. At the end of 2018, I bought a brand new Ford Ranger Wildtrak X (not quite on the scale of an F150). On collection, my truck had done around 12 miles on the clock. However, at around 460 miles, I first noticed the dreaded scuffing / grating noise that you are all talking about here. Initially, the noise only appeared while creeping along in traffic jams, under light braking / to final point of stopping – it then quickly progressed to higher speed braking, from around 30mph to stopping. At first it seemed like a brake noise related issue, for example shot pads / metal to metal scrapping. After 3 visits to my UK dealership (truck now at 1400 miles), they have finally agreed there is something more sinister going on, other than the brakes needing a "good ole bedding in", was the advise given!?!? Yikes, this is a new vehicle I am thinking, but that was the best explanation they came up with, well, up till the low loader collection making it visit 3. This time, they have told me that my locking hubs are shot to bits (at 1400 miles??? Really!!!), sounds a little concerning to me. O, and this is the first time, this kind of failure has happened in their experience (best they come here for a read)... So far, my dealer has had the truck for a week and I am told today, there may be a possibility that it will be with them for another 2 weeks until the replacement parts (locking hubs) arrive from Germany. The interesting point here is, that not only does this problem exist on the F150 but other vehicles in the Ford product range too! The only upshot at present for me is; I am keeping the miles down on my truck while I smoke around in their demonstrator. Overall, I am getting cheesed off with the whole thing – this is my 3rd brand new Ford in succession, being Mustang GT, Edge Vignale and now the Ranger Wildtrak (Ranger being the best bullet proof Ford available in their European range, ye rightio!). So far, I am not so sure whether there will be a forth new Ford sat on my drive in the future.
James
I seem to be having this same issue on my 2013 f150. I also have the Ford 100,000 mile bumper to bumper. Would the IWE actuator be covered under warranty?
Jason
I know this is from a long time ago but out of curiosity was there any damage to the cv axle? Just curious if I need to prepare my pocket for the added expense. Thanks in advance.
Dennis
Excellent article on everything IWE. Theory, testing, diagram. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/836438-everything-you-wanted-to-know-about-the-iwe-system-and-then-some.html
Brian
Did both of mine last night. I had a loud driveline noise that was driving me nuts! The noise would go away when i shifted the truck into 4wd. I tested both and the right one iwe was fully engaged, When i removed it, it was broken in half. Fully locking the half shaft and hub.I guess it was spinning the front diff spider gears(the noise) and when i shifted into 4wd the left would lockup and spin the whole diff and front driveshaft. drove truck today and noise is GONE! thanks for help
Mike
My 2012 fx4 did this soon as we got on Vacation. Took to ford and they are replacing the whole IWE system. The actuators, valve, check valve ect.. Going run around $940 with labor and everything. Ford keeping truck another day cause need get a harness as well. Im wondering if this repair will fix my rear locking differential. It used to work and now when I pull the 4x4 knob out it says "check locking diffrential" . Just very surprised that i needed basicaly whole system replaced since I am OCD when comes to any noise. Soon as I heard it happen, i just ran it in 4X4 till I got it in the shop.
Mike
My 2012 fx4 did this soon as we got on Vacation. Took to ford and they are replacing the whole IWE system. The actuators, valve, check valve ect.. Going run around $940 with labor and everything. Ford keeping truck another day cause need get a harness as well. Im wondering if this repair will fix my rear locking differential. It used to work and now when I pull the 4x4 knob out it says "check locking diffrential" . Just very surprised that i needed basicaly whole system replaced since I am OCD when comes to any noise. Soon as I heard it happen, i just ran it in 4X4 till I got it in the shop.
John
I have a 2011 XLT 3.5L Ecoboost and I get a grinding sound whenever I'm in 4WD and making a hard slow speed turn. Yesterday, I was making a turn in 4WD out of my driveway and I heard a loud pop coming from the front suspension of my truck. Don't have any issues in 2WD though. I'm in 4WD most of the time since I live down some lightly maintained dirt roads and I don't' seem to have any popping/grinding sounds at higher speeds or on straightaways. Took my truck to the dealership and they said it was the rear axle spline needing to be re-greased. Didn't solve the problem. Any suggestions?
Charbel
Same problem here. Please feedback how to resolve it. Thx
Mitch
I had this same issue on my 2011 FX4 WITH ONLY 69,000 MILES. BEST FIX IS TO GET THE RCV IWE ELIMINATOR KIT. IT WILL LOCK YOUR HUB TO THE CV AXLE ALL THE TIME AND WILL ALWAYS SPIN, BUT WILL ONLY GO INTO 4WD WHEN YOU SHIFT IT INTO 4WD. THIS WILL CAUSE MORE WEAR TO YOUR CV AXLES, BUT NOTHING CRAZIER THAN A FWD CAR.
Laurie
2015 F150....got to about 30000 and it started. Took the truck to a Ford dealership2-3 times and they would look at the vehicle and drive it and they all played dumb like they never heard of this before. I find this disgusting and why has Ford not issues a recall instead of charging the folks who buy their product and are loyal owners all this money for a fault from the factory. I have been told that this is about 1000 dollars to fix and only will last 2 years and then expect to do it again. Ford is losing customers fast....just ashame.. Admit your mistakes FORD and fix this issue that has been going on for over 10 years!
Ron
2011 f150 5.0 grinding noise getting worse, replaced check valve, solenoid, vacuum lines, driver side actuator and wheel hub and it it’s still happening and just as bad, took it to a shop and no luck uncovering the issue, all parts I got are from Ford original OEM. No codes found when scanned. Replacing the vacuum lines again this week. This is a very frustrating as it happens now while hitting bumps, turning, highway speed, any driving condition. Any ideas or solutions are appreciated.
Jason Dykstra
I am having issues with one wheel not disengaging from the CV shaft when in 2wd (front passenger side). I checked vacuum at the line (finger over the tube method), and it has vacuum. I replaced the actuator and applied vacuum to it to see if it would cycle, which it did. I then fitted it onto the CV shaft and slid it into the hub, bolted the IWE down and tightened the nut on the end of the CV shaft. When I spun the wheel, the CV shaft turned with it in 2wd. I test drove it and heard nothing, checked again, and the shaft was still turning with the wheel in 2wd. I took it back apart and checked everything again. It worked as it should when vacuum was applied. When reassembled, same issue. Considering I have vacuum and a new IWE at the wheel, I don't know where to turn next.
LesJemy
Online Pharmacyeliferx Cialis To Buy Uk [url=http://antabusefast.com]is disulfiram approved in canada[/url] order accutane online no prescription
Jesse
I’m having a issue with grinding coming from my driver side iwe. It started as random grinding, so I replaced the actuator and solenoid. But after I replaced those, the noise got significantly worse, and now it grinds any time my rpms climb. I thought it could possibly have a leak coming from the hub so I replaced that as well, but all to no avail. No grinding in 4x4, but shocking loud grinding any time i try to pick up speed in 2 wheel drive. I vacuum tested all the lines, and they were all good. But when I tested down to the actuator, it had a loss of pressure.....not entirely sure what else to do to fix this problem. Any advice?
Jesse
I’m having a issue with grinding coming from my driver side iwe. It started as random grinding, so I replaced the actuator and solenoid. But after I replaced those, the noise got significantly worse, and now it grinds any time my rpms climb. I thought it could possibly have a leak coming from the hub so I replaced that as well, but all to no avail. No grinding in 4x4, but shocking loud grinding any time i try to pick up speed in 2 wheel drive. I vacuum tested all the lines, and they were all good. But when I tested down to the actuator, it had a loss of pressure.....not entirely sure what else to do to fix this problem. Any advice?
chase
Dealership told me driver side hum locked because the passengers iwe was leaking and taking all the vacuum to keep the wheel disengaged on the passengers side.. I hope
chase
I'm having the same problem dealership replaced the iwe actuator and still have the problem, dealership was clue less. So I replaced the vacuum line, vacuum control valve & solenoid, but I still have the hub locked in with the cv axel.... So I took it back to the dealership they are clueless still, told me they never heard of this problem before, told them online ford has 8 to 10 years of complaints about there iwe. Wish I should have listen to my Chevy friends. Will update if they found the problem
jerome boucher
Similar problem: - When I shift 4x4 knob, the 4h does not engage. I can see ``4x4 shifting in progress`` but I`m still in 2wd. - I tested the vacuum solenoid and I found out that it does not shut off while in 4x4. There are always vacuum in the line. - I change the solenoid. - I was able to engage and de-engage the 4x4 as normal. - While doing an off road test, I lost the 4x4 again. -The solenoid is again always making vacuum in 2wd and 4wd. -I measured the voltage on the solenoid connector and I got 14V in 2wd and 12V in 4wd. I am pretty sure I should not get any power while on 4wd... I thinking to change the 4x4 knob switch or maybe the 4x4 conctroler... I`m lost!
imituch
Cialis tablets [url=https://getcialischeaply.online/]cheap cialis[/url] generic cialis online india
Matt
I think I have read every thread and watched every YouTube video on grinding... The check valve, solenoid and IWE's have been changed. One IWE is OEM and one is Dorman, I couldn't get a set at either place in the timeframe I could work on it. Pulling the vacuum line off the solenoid and connecting my manual vacuum pump I can't maintain vacuum to the IWE's. I ordered two new IWE vacuum connectors lines and will try that soon. 1 question; there are two ports on the IWE, as far as I can tell by tracing the lines, the one goes to atmosphere along the main vacuum line. To test the IWE, do I plug one port and apply vacuum to the other? 2. If it's the main vacuum line across to the passengers side, is difficult to change? looks like it's not and relatively cheap. 3. On the IWE tube connector, does it just pull out of the main vacuum line with barbed fittings? I need the truck right now so I pulled the vacuum line off the solenoid to let the IWE's engage fully instead of causing more damage but that obviously makes everything turn....
Curt Kautsch
Just Eliminate the entire vacuum system bad design https://www.rcvperformance.com/rcv-ultimate-iwe-eliminator-set-for-ford-raptor-10-up-f-150-04-up.html
Nic
2019 F150 same problem with grinding and noise on drivers side. Service appointment at 8am tommorow. I will see what kind of BS they give me about it.
Kris
Nic, What did the dealership say was your problem? And were they able to fix the issue?
CharlesBig
[url=http://mysite.ru]http://mysite.ru[/url]
ArthurAccum
Hi, here on the forum guys advised a cool Dating site, be sure to register - you will not REGRET it https://bit.ly/39Zx5oK
Curt Kautsch
Answer to everyone’s prayers, here is the illuminator kit https://www.rcvperformance.com/rcv-ultimate-iwe-eliminator-set-for-ford-raptor-10-up-f-150-04-up.html
Curt Kautsch
Meant to say eliminator kit, or delete kit. This locks the front hubs indefinitely. Yes it may cause premature wear, but every jeep and GM off road vehicle is designed this way from the factory, unless you drive high miles i would just delete it all together. Ford is the only manufacturer that has this horrible vacuum system.
Wes Parsons
It looks like this thread has been on here for a while but wanted to put in my comment bc there is alot about the problem but not what was done to fix it. I have a 2011 expedition. Took it into the shop after nearly getting stranded at the beach. The tech replaced the drivers side hub actuator. He said the half shaft was worn and replaced that as well. I thought all was well. I took it back to the beach and it sounded like the entire drive train fell out. I got off the beach with some help and had a tech look at it to make sure I could make the 9 hour drive back home. All the big parts were in good shape with no metal flake in the case or diff. Took it to a shop near my house and he replaced the actuator again and the hub this time. He said the hub was so worn that it wouldnt engage. After that expense and 5 miles later it started grinding during acceleration. it would grind then slam out or in im not sure. I ended up replacing the solenoid at the fire wall and the check valve. $53. It was better but still not right. While at the dealership I ordered a new air line. another $50. After replacing the air lines all is well. Short version..... If you are hearing any grinding first thing first pay the $100 and replace the solenoid, check valve, and air lines. Otherwise you may be replacing damaged parts but still not fixing the problem.